HANDLOOM OF TRIPURA

Introduction Brief Outline Development Approach Variety_of_Handloom	Pattern/level_of_Production Raw Materials Brief Overview Places Where Available

Introduction :

The Handloom Industry has to play a dominant role in the economic development of the rural mass. The Handloom are scattered in the rural and semi-urban areas. The Handloom Industry is an important sector in providing large scale employment in Tripura. The development of this Industry will directly result in the upliftment of the rural mass development of Tripura. As indicated the provision of an alternate employment can be immerged. Thus the development of this Industry affairs prime of place.

Brief outline of Tripura Handloom :

From the time immortal, Tripura has called but a name for itself in the field of handloom & handicrafts. Handloom is the single largest and perhaps the oldest industry in the state. The tribal people produce their own cloths with the elegant designs, unique colour combinations and lasting texture. Among the traditional produces, mention may be made of Risa and Riha (breast garments). Riha is remarkable for its colorful variety and texture. The Bengalee weavers who have migrated in Tripura from the erstwhile East Pakistan (Bengal) are the main commercial weaver and play a significant role in the development of Handloom Industry. They have also contributed to the development of texture, variety in the Handloom Industry. The Manipuri weavers are also playing an important role in developing Handloom Industry in Tripura.

As per National Handloom Census 1986-87 there are 1,15,236 weavers in Tripura (Commercial & Non-Commercial etc.). The weavers are scattered all over the Tripura and there were 184 Weavers Co-operative Societies for the State. In some cases, number of Weavers Co-operative Societies were formed in same locality. There was no integrated approach for overall development of Handloom in the state.

Mr.W.H.Hunter writes in his report in 1875 that many years ago one of Tripura Rajas married a daughter of king of Assam and with her there came a small colony of Tusar Silk weavers who laid the foundation of Sericulture Industry in the state. The colony is now confined to a small village. A few miles from Agartala, a village called Resham Bagan (Silk Garden) still remains witness of the fact.

In the tiny state of NorthEastern India Handloom Industry has grown with the civilisation itself. People in this region look to weaving inseparable part of life. The industry has passed on from generation to generation. The tribal women of Tripura religiously devoted to weaving . The beginning of ritual has always been with the offering of flowers and beautiful piece of Riha and Risa given by the great grand mother and followed by each and every tribal family as their tradition. In fact it was a pre-requisite for every tribal girl to know weaving. Otherwise she should not be considered as a bride.

Regarding rich tradition of Tripura Handloom Industry there are many references in "RAJMALA" a book for Tripura royal family. According to it once a king announced to marry a lady who could weave fabrics of new design. One a day a lady came to the Palace and presented a beautiful hand woven textile to the king who was surprised to see the finest woven fabrics by the lady and married her.

In another story we find that once one community called "REANG", the second largest tribal community disobeyed the king who ordered them not to use another colour in their textiles except black and red. Though the Royal days are gone the community still observe the stricture. This gives us the antiauencess (old) of the Handloom Industry of Tripura and its rich heritage which is coming down from generation to generation.

Broadly we can classify the Handloom of Tripura in two categories : 1.Commercial and 2.Non-commercial looms.

Non-commercial looms are operated by the tribal inhabitants of the state. They weave fabrics for their own consumption whereas the commercial looms are controlled by the Bengalis as well as Manipuri weavers. So the Handloom Industry of Tripura is the reflection of Tribals, Manipuri and Bengalies.

Integrated Approach for Handloom Development :

The integrated approach for the development of Handloom has been in the state since 1993-94. The main approach is to identify the clusters where the weavers are mostly concentrated in the state. One bigger type of Weavers' Co-operative Society has been organised in each Handloom Clusters. 24 nos. of Handloom Clusters have been identified and 24 nos. Primary Weavers' Co-operative Societies have been organised. The weavers of Tripura generally produce low variety of fabrics such as coarse variety of Sarees/ Dhuties/ Gamchas/ Lungies etc. Their earning were Rs.15/- to Rs.25/- per day. In new approach, special thrust has been given to increase the wages/ earning of the weavers to get employment in continuous basis. To achieve the new approach the weavers have been provided training for production of value added fabrics like Tangail Sarees/ Jamdani Sarees/ Silk Sarees/ Tie & Dye Sarees and others.

Manipuri tribal weavers produce fabrics by loin loom. Steps have been taken to convert the tribal & Manipuri women weavers to commercial weavers. So that they can produce the fabrics for commercial purpose a part from their own consumption.

Variety of Handloom :

Different types of looms are in use for production of Handloom cloths. The type of loom chosen depends on the variety of fabrics to be produced. The following types of looms are in use in Tripura :